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Usually it can be isolated to one of a couple of causes. Some racers advocate loosening body mount screws to increase performance. These will give you better durability and won't break during hard impacts. Run at low speed and "round" the assembly by lightly applying the assembly to a flat piece of sandpaper or a sanding block.

Tires that clear the body at rest may have serious body rubbing problems at speed. You could also put some thin washers on the body mounting posts to fix the problem but this will raise the rear of the body slightly. There are several solutions to the loose front wheel problem so you can choose which method best suits your needs.

Some cars use a stiff front axle set up. This is a common problem with some of the older Scalextric Euro-sedans. Also make very sure that the inside edges of your tires are properly rounded since these inside edges are the leading edges during rail transition. This can have the effect of causing the front end to lift. Edges will then need to be rounded using a small sanding block or similar. If you want to get real tricky and think you can slip it past the inspectors try this: As we mentioned earlier, warped chassis can usually be fixed by putting it under hot water and gently straightening it.

Third, install the guide shoe and turn it back and forth until the glue sets up. These are mentioned only as examples of where you can obtain certain items; they are not recommendations or advertisements.

It is critical that the vertical CG be set before any other Race Tuning procedure is accomplished or else unsatisfactory tuning results will almost certainly be obtained.

Take a look at the Wheel drawing for additional details. When dry, it bonds to the axle and adds just the right amount of diameter increase to the axle in the bushing to remove excess bearing slop.

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So be careful when running traction magnets and consider fusing your controllers or power supply as a safety precaution. The second most common front end problem is the car acting sluggish in the turns. This is where you make sure the chassis is not warped or damaged.

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I like brass or aluminium thin wall tubing because it's light and strong. Also a parma slot of silicone or white Moly grease on the gear self align slot will reduce friction. There are several designs for front axles. You should be able to find proper inserts for these wheels so that your car doesn't suffer appearance wise. Now remove the chassis assembly from the body, watching to see if any parts fall out when the chassis and body are separated.

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If not, you can take the original plastic wheels and make inserts from them. Get some hair thin mm o-rings Dip them in nail polish and slip them on over your front tires to the high point, usually parma slot center. If you are in doubt about your ability to do this correctly there are slower set up time super glues parma slot you can find at your local hobby store.

This will slightly polish the gears and make them mesh better.

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I also add a small drop of super glue to the crown gear to axle joint to reinforce this joint. Removing the offending strand will cure the problem.

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On the track, only the small "bump" of the o-ring will touch, greatly reducing rolling friction. Some people advocate using a small amount of super glue in the bearing to tighten the tolerance of the axle to bearing surface. FLY Classics typically exhibit this problem as well as cars with larger diameter non-standard tires. So be observant and watch for this so that you won't have to spend time trying to figuring out where some doodad or such came from.

Parma slot manufacturers will typically err to the high side on the cars height. Here are a couple of the more important things to look for other than those mentioned specifically in the General Section of this article. Cars with body parts molded on the chassis will have to have these items removed first and glued to the body.

Further, for competition these eyelets should be soldered to the guide braid at the guide see step e below for more info. One other option is to take a small piece of sound deadening foam and fit it between the motor and body.

The main cause of these burrs is not being careful when removing the motor or rear axle. This assembly is covered later in this section. Ideally, you want the front tires to just barely touch the track when the car is at rest. What should you do? This is a too much rolling friction problem. After you've completed the gluing procedure you should check the wheel alignment and balance again and correct any deficiencies caused by the gluing.

Be careful to use the glue sparingly because it has a tendency to run and you don't want to mess up that beautiful paint finish with it.

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If so, then there is a problem in the motor. If you screw up here, you can use Acetone used in most fingernail polish removers to dissolve most CA-super glues. Another gear problem which can cause quite a bit of gear noise is a problem with mass produced motors. This usually happens at the motor connection and can be spotted by looking for broken strands at the solder joint.

You can usually find these noise makers by shaking the body without the chassis installed. Adding weight can also help. One other symptom of this type of problem is the controller becoming excessively warm after running the car a short time. Slot-it axle kits see at: These items are covered in Section III parma slot this article.

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See, there's a reason people tell you not to over lube the motor bearings. The glue will slowly tighten up the axle slop.

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Finally, sometimes the car floats or even de-slots on the straights. If you are using a stock motor you can remove any resistors, capacitors, or inductors that are soldered on to the motor leads. This is usually caused by the cars rear tires transitioning from the plastic track to the metal rails and back to the plastic track as the car drifts. The next easiest fix is to reinforce the axle bearing carriers.

Many cars have very little chassis to body clearance in some areas so wire routing can be important. On these drive trains the self aligning crown gear takes a lot of the slop out of the axle. These items have parma slot habit of failing at the most inopportune time and could cost you a race win so take that junk off. This is usually caused by the front end unloading and allowing the traction to push the guide shoe out of the slot.

Additionally, the drive train will be noisy and there will be additional friction present. Older Scalextric cars have spring loaded contact between the braid and the motor leads.

First, shut down the power to be safe. This is an alternative to soldering, which can melt the plastic and damage a good chassis. This mod alone can reduce your lap times by a tenth or two. For front tires, I also find it better to sand off all tread patterns from the tires because you want a smooth non grip surface.

Parma slot the wheel and put superglue into the axle hole.



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