Antique Slot Machine Restoration & Repair
By the time we finish this section we'll have the entire right-hand frame removed from the mech.
This lever interacts with the escalator to determine when a coin has been inserted, and in turn allows the mech to cycle. Here's what the underside looks like once it has been removed from the mech: The order in which you remove parts usually isn't critical; as long as you can get to the parts easily and remove the necessary screws and springs the part is probably safe to remove.
They should be easy for you to locate.
We've also discussed the anti-check payout control assembly at some length. The photo above shows the first part we'll be removing.
A word of caution before we proceed: It may not free up every frozen, rusted screw, but it does a heck of a job. Just a quick word about B'laster In the photo above you can see the restore antique slot machine shafts we removed and replaced earlier, along with another bumper that probably needs to be replaced.
Let's take a closer look at the rubber bumper attached to this piece: Come along for the ride. That shoulder is the surface upon which the lever rotates. The horizontal payout lever braket is secured to the base plate with a couple of screws. Once they are removed, if you are trying to remove all the fingers one at a time or all at once, you will have to work them backwards GENTLY to get them out of the guide bracket up near the slides seen near the top of the photo above.
It's secured by a shoulder screw visible in the photo above, plus a spring that is attached to the underside of the base plate. Back to the anti-check payout assembly, it is held in place by two screws: Sometimes there is a spacer underneath the horizontal payout lever bracket, so be sure to watch for it and replace it when you reassemble the machine. Bending was a common and accepted adjustment in most antique slot machines.
Parts wear together over the decades, and changing them around can sometimes cause you problems. The two parts highlighted above are pretty easy to remove.
As we remove the horizontal fingers and the payout slides, it's important to keep them in order just like we did for the vertical fingers a few chapters ago. The coin detector lever should be familiar to you from our earlier discussion regarding the operation of the mechanism outside of the cabinet.
If you would like to know more please feel free to give him a call at Thank you for your support and for making this passion so successful. Once the shoulder screw is removed and the spring is disconnected the lever can be removed, although it takes a bit of maneuvering to get it out from under the coin slides.
You may also notice in the above photo that some of the fingers are bent a bit on the right-hand side. If the small spring attached to the safety slide lever breaks or loses tension, or if the lever gets generally gummed up, the safety slide can travel backwards on every pull of the handle, preventing the machine from paying off.
If you encounter parts that are bent inside of an antique slot machine, your first instinct may be to straighten them out immediately. Notice that I've tied the slides together with a piece of wire to keep their order straight.
John's love and skills in the Antique Slot Machine trade has allowed him to become well known to collectors and dealers everywhere for his ability to turn old broken down slots into fully functional works of art. Now we're ready to remove the main operating lever. Now, on to the coin tube itself.
It's great stuff to have around. It its normal position, it allows coins to pass down through it and out of the mechanism into the payout chute.
These two screws are sometimes difficult to remove, so you may need to apply some WD or a penetrating solvent like B'laster. We repair metal slot machine castings, such as Bonnet, front casting, upper and lower casting and back doors as well as complete restore antique slot machine of the internal mechanisms The work is done by mig welding and hand tooling, no putty or fillers will ever be used.
Anyway, back to the mech: This is a very substantial part that does the job of transferring energy from the handle to the mechanism itself. There's a good chance that someone who knew more about slot machines that you do put the bend in the part intentionally a long time ago, and you don't want to inadvertently undo their good work.
We've also got another small dog to remove, and it's no more difficult than the last one.
Believe it or not, that's it! It's secured on the underside of the base plate with a screw. If you would like to know more, please feel free to give San Diego John John a call at San Diego John has spent 29 years fine tuning his skills as an artist and slot machine Mechanic creating a name for himself known world wide from converting nickel, and dime machines to quarter, or completely stripping and repainting to original standards, to adding new chrome and restoring wood work to original quality.
We've only got a few parts left to remove, and they are all secured with basic screws.
San Diego John's own collection, like many others, started out with just one casino terimleri. Once again, a single cotter pin and a spring attach it to the frame. Moving right along, let's look at the operating fork dog. I'm going to leave them in place for now.
Saturday, January 30, Horizontal fingers and payout slides The last parts left connected to the base plate are all related to the payout system. Don't misplace the spacer shown above.
Four screws secure the payout slide coverplate. If the machine has been jarred during its cycle, however, the lever trips and the slide moves backwards to prevent coins from passing through.
The part in the photo above can be removed at this point, although it is probably easier to wait until the coin slides are removed. Another easy part to remove is the operating lever stop pin, which is secured by a single shoulder screw and related spring.
We're in the home stretch now, and we'll tackle those parts next. The coin detector lever is held in place with a shoulder screw. Here's a view from underneath the base plate: